Over 5 million people annually visit Yosemite National Park in California, and the National Park Service reports that 75% come between May and October. That’s a lot of people and traffic peaks during the summer months. To avoid wasting valuable time, plan to stay inside the park.
The park offers three hotels and 13 campgrounds. For those wanting something in-between, Half Dome (formerly Curry) Village, Housekeeping Camp, Tuolumne Meadows and White Wolf Lodge offer an array of cabins and canvas tents.
Currently, Aramark runs all of the park’s lodging. Due to a trademark dispute with the previous concessionaire, Delaware North, Yosemite renamed several hotels and landmarks in 2016. Since some of these names had been in place almost 100 years, it will take time to call them by the new names.
Big Trees Lodge (formerly Wawona Hotel)
Just a few miles inside Yosemite’s south entrance on Hwy 41, lies Big Trees Lodge. Built in the late 1870’s, the lodge named Wawona from the Indian word “big trees” was a stopping point before trekking the 30 miles via stage-coach to Yosemite Valley.
Overlooking a grassy meadow, the series of two-story, wooden buildings evoke a simpler time. Long verandas beg visitors to sit and relax for a spell. However, only 50 rooms include private bathrooms. With fewer modern conveniences, why do people stay here?
First, a shuttle for guests runs to the nearby the Mariposa Grove. Home to over 500 sequoias, it just reopened in 2018 after a $40 million, three-year restoration campaign.
Although less crowded than the Yosemite Valley area, many activities abound including a nine-hole golf course. Nearby, the Big Trees Stable offers two-hour guided horseback tours.
Within walking distance, the Pioneer Yosemite Heritage Center explores the area’s history. With cabins of several early settlers, a blacksmith shop and a covered bridge, visitors can get a feel for life in the late 1800’s. In the summer months, they sell tickets for horse-drawn carriage rides.
The Majestic Yosemite Hotel (formerly the Ahwahnee Hotel)
To attract upscale visitors, the NPS opened the Ahwahnee (I can’t get used to the new name) in 1927. The rustic, arts and crafts style hotel is the quintessential National Park lodge. It’s no wonder since the architect, Gilbert Stanley Underwood, also built NPS lodges at the Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Zion and Yellowstone.
With large floor-to-ceiling windows flanked by two huge fireplaces, the Great Lounge has welcomed celebrities and several US Presidents. But back in WWII, the US navy leased the space for a naval hospital that treated over 6,700 men from 1943 to 1945. Because of its remote location, patients felt isolated and suffered boredom until the navy administration added a library, a woodworking shop and a bowling alley. Movie nights, family visits and outdoor activities also boosted morale. Through its success at Yosemite, this model of social interaction is still used today in rehab environments.
I stayed at the Ahwahnee with my parents when I was in my teens. I can’t tell you what our hotel room looked like, but I still remember the cavernous dining room. Although the hotel sits on the Yosemite Valley shuttle stop, it manages to escape the hustle and bustle of the valley area. Even if not staying here, the magnificent architecture alone warrants a visit.
During the 1920’s construction, trucks navigated heavy loads of granite stone over the winding, primitive roads at great expense. Although the exterior appears to be made from redwood trees, it is not. Instead, builders poured tinted concrete into molds designed to resemble wood siding.
Yosemite Valley Lodge (formerly the Yosemite Lodge at the Falls)
Suiting the needs of families, the Yosemite Valley Lodge features 245 rooms spread out over 15 buildings. An amphitheater, food court, gift shop, bike rental and swimming pool make this a central place for activities. Even better – it’s just a short walk to Lower Yosemite Falls.
The family suite met our needs perfectly. Although the rooms don’t have air conditioning, electric fans and open windows provide a respite from the summertime heat. We also enjoyed the mini-fridge and double sinks with large mirror.
Layouts vary between the buildings but our suite offered a skylight window with a view of Yosemite Falls. Because of its size, the lodge offers three different dining options. We ate dinner at the upscale Mountain Room Restaurant with views of the falls on our first night. A similarly named Mountain Room Lounge offers burgers and less fancy food.
The next morning I was happy to find a Starbucks open at 6 am in the Base Camp Eatery. The newly designed food court also offered many choices for our family.
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Sources:
National Parks Traveler – https://www.nationalparkstraveler.org/2010/11/navy-converted-yosemites-luxurious-ahwahnee-hotel-hospital-use-during-world-war-ii7269
Sierra Nevada Geotourism – https://www.sierranevadageotourism.org/content/the-majestic-yosemite-hotel/sie9c4a8b5555db44ca2