To give you an idea of the lay of the land of the Black Hills, the town of Hot Springs, Wind Cave National Park, Custer State Park, and Jewel Cave National Monument lie in the Southern Black Hills area. Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse, and Rapid City sit in the Central Blacks Hills region. And the Northern Black Hills area consists of Sturgis, home of the annual Motorcycle Rally, Deadwood, Lead, Spearfish, and Belle Fourche.
The Northern Black Hills
After leaving our cabin near Hill City, we made our way through the Northern Black Hills en route to Devil’s Tower National Monument. About a half-hour later, we stopped at the 800-acre Pactola Reservoir. As South Dakota’s largest and deepest lake, activities such as fishing and hiking abound.
At the bottom of the lake lies the remains of Camp Crook (later renamed Pactola), a town with a post office, railroad, hotel, courthouse, and other buildings. In the 1950s, engineers built the dam to provide a water source for nearby Rapid City. Before releasing the water, the town auctioned off and moved most of its buildings.
Deadwood
Once we entered Deadwood, I felt we stepped into the set of an old western. Back in the 1870s, prospectors flooded the area seeking gold in the Black Hills. After Wild Bill Hickok died during a poker game, the town earned a reputation for lawlessness. Other famous residents included Calamity Jane, Seth Bullock, and Potato Creek Johnny. HBO created the Primetime Emmy Award-winning series “Deadwood” based on this time period.
We stopped at the visitor center, located in the old train depot near the historic downtown area. While gathering information about the area, we looked at several displays. A telegraph office showed how people sent messages before email and cell phones. Outside, luggage trunks sat next to an old lever scale. When people traveled, the train companies charged per pound for luggage. Despite being over 100 years old, the E.T. Fairbanks Company scale still boasts an accuracy within five pounds.
The few blocks of historic downtown we walked seemed quiet in the morning hours. Peering inside, we noticed multiple casinos and gambling establishments. If we had more time, we would have explored the Adams Museum and maybe learned more about mining operations.
Spearfish Canyon
To see several waterfalls, we took the long way to Spearfish via Hwy 14A. This road led us through the mining town of Lead and Spearfish Canyon. While Deadwood felt somewhat contrived and touristy (although interesting), Spearfish Canyon highlighted the outdoor beauty of the Northern Black Hills.
The staff member at the Deadwood visitor center suggested we see Roughlock Falls. Turning off the main highway at Spearfish Canyon Lodge, we drove down a gravel road about a mile to the Roughlock Falls Nature Area. The area looked newly built with pristine sidewalks, picnic tables, and an ADA-accessible trail to the falls.
While not huge, the wide waterfalls flowed consistently over lichen-coated rocks creating a calm oasis. I didn’t want to leave! Thing 2 and I continued the trail that led us to the lodge and across the street to the Latchstring Inn Restaurant. The canyon engulfed us and we felt really small walking along the way.
At the Latchstring Inn Restaurant, a 1.5-mile (round trip) trail began to Spearfish Falls. For visitors not wanting to trek down to the bottom of the canyon, an overlook from the parking provides a view. However, the shaded trail provides a gentle walk to the majestic falls and gives a much better perspective of the waterfalls’ size.
By this time, DH and Thing 1 parked at the restaurant and made their way to the falls. In the picture above, note the observation deck to the right of the top of the falls. Back at the restaurant, I took a picture of the signpost that shows the walking paths between Roughlock and Spearfish Falls.
Back in the car, we drove past Bridal Veil Falls about six miles later. Located right along the road, a large parking lot gives visitors views of the 60-foot falls. Honestly, we didn’t even bother parking but took a picture from the road instead.
Each of the waterfalls has its own ambiance and I’m glad we saw each one. If I ever have a chance to come back to the Black Hills, this is the area I want to explore in more depth.
Spearfish
We returned to civilization in Spearfish, the state’s 10th largest city. Although only 11,000 residents, Spearfish is larger than Keystone, Hill City, Custer, and Deadwood combined.
We stopped at a cute cafe in Spearfish. Tired of burgers and fries, I enjoyed a salad loaded with chicken, cucumbers, tomatoes, and sprouts at Green Bean Coffehouse. Others ordered sandwiches, dessert, and coffee. The vibe felt hip (for South Dakota) as many customers sat at tables using their laptops. Next stop – Wyoming!
