One thing that attracted us to staying in Ithaca was the location near three state parks with waterfalls: Buttermilk Falls, Taughannock Falls, and Robert Treman. In addition, the town of Ithaca boasts waterfalls all over the city, including Cascadilla Gorge and Triphammer Falls.
Surprisingly, the falls didn’t start blending in together. Each has its own unique characteristic, making them all worthy of a visit. We planned to do three waterfall hikes in one day since we could use our $10 park admission pass at all three parks on the same without having to pay again.
Buttermilk Falls State Park
We stayed at LaTourelle Hotel & Spa, which connected to some of the lesser-known trails at Buttermilk Falls State Park and Lake Treman. While most people head to the lower entrance of the park to see the namesake Buttermilk Falls, we parked at the upper entrance instead. The 0.75-mile (one-way) Gorge Trail features ten waterfalls in a stunning hike that is not to be missed.
After crossing West King Road shortly after the parking lot, the hike descends into the gorge. Trees above provide plenty of shade while the crystal-clear water of Buttermilk Creek spills down the rocks.
Along the CCC-built hike, we passed Pinnacle Rock, formed from erosion through the years. However, the most distinctive geological feature is the perfectly shaped circular pools of water. These “potholes” form from circulating sand and pebbles that have deepened over time.
Near the end of the trail, we came to a large set of stairs before reaching the cascading Buttermilk Falls. The namesake falls drop about 165 feet into a natural pool that opens for swimming during the summer months. While the falls typically widen from 60 to 100 feet across, we saw more of a trickle instead due to very little recent rainfall.
I’m thankful we saw the actual Buttermilk Falls after hiking the Gorge Trail. Had we just driven to the lower entrance, we would have missed the most scenic parts of this state park.
To return to the upper parking lot, many visitors take the Rim Trail to complete a loop. However, I backtracked on the Gorge Trail to enjoy the same scenery and gentle waterfalls one more time and then drove to the lower entrance to pick up DH (Dear Hubby) who didn’t want to take the stairs. For more detailed information about Buttermilk Falls State Park and a trail map, click here.
Taughannock Falls State Park
Before heading to Buttermilk Falls, we visited Taughannock Falls (pronounced tuh-gan-ick) earlier that morning. Located about ten miles from Ithaca, Taughannock boasts the tallest single-drop waterfall in the Northeast. Large canyon walls surround the 215-foot waterfall, making it a popular spot for tourists and hikers.
We entered the park on Taughannock Falls Road, which took us to the stone overlook. At one time, the Cataract Hotel, later renamed Taughannock House, stood near this overlook. Guests had to take a train, steamship, and carriage just to reach the hotel. But the views were worth the effort.
The state purchased the property after a fire destroyed the hotel in 1922. Recently, the area underwent a $1.9 million renovation with a new parking lot and visitor center.
The Lower Falls area of the park lies along Lake Cayuga, just a short drive (or hike) away. This more populated area boasts picnic tables, campsites, a playground, a marina, a boat launch, and the trailhead for the 1.8-mile Gorge Trail. The mostly-level hike took us to the base of the waterfalls while the canyon walls towered 350 feet above. Notches remain where rocks have fallen from the walls over time.
If you’re short on time, skip the hike, but take in the falls from the overlook. There are plenty more waterfalls in the area to see. For detailed information about Taughannock Falls State Park and a trail map, click the website here.
Robert Treman State Park
Lastly, we headed to Robert Treman State Park after filling up on sandwiches at a nearby cafe. Like Buttermilk Falls, the two park entrances at this state park offer completely different experiences. We entered the Lower Park entrance closest to Ithaca.
We could see Lower Falls, also called Enfield Falls, from the parking lot. A lifeguard watched people swimming in a roped-off area at the base of the 70-foot high falls. Other amenities included a playground, park office, and picnic tables.
We got back in the car and drove to the Upper Park entrance. The park attendant at the gate recommended we take the Upper Gorge Trail to see Lucifer Falls, the largest waterfall in the park. Walking through the sometimes narrow Enfield Glen, we noticed the straight, angular lines compared to the circular potholes at Buttermilk Falls. These joint lines formed millions of years ago from natural gas bubbling up.
The total 2.05-mile (one-way) Gorge Trail passes a dozen waterfalls. We only hiked the abbreviated Upper Gorge Trail that took us to the 115-foot-tall Lucifer Falls, but we passed by many of these small waterfalls. Many people compare this part of the park to Buttermilk Falls.
Before too long, we descended the stairs next to Lucifer Falls. I always say, “What goes up, must go down and vice-versa.” We crossed the bridge and headed up 222 stone stairs at the Cliff Staircase to reach the Rim Trail back to the parking lot.
Interestingly enough, Robert H. Treman donated most of the land for Buttermilk Falls State Park, Taughannock Falls, and Enfield Falls Reservation (renamed Robert H. Treman State Park). Born in Ithaca to a prestigious family, the Cornell graduate worked in the family hardware store before becoming president of Thompkins County National Bank. Later he served on the boards of Cornell University and The Federal Reserve Bank of New York.
Treman purchased what had been a small village, including a grist mill and hotel, around upper Enfield Creek in 1916 and gifted the 400 acres to the state for a public park (originally called Enfield Falls Reservation) in 1920. From 1924 until he died in 1937, Treman served as supervisor of the Finger Lakes Commission of the state parks system.
At the parking lot, we went inside the old mill, built in 1839. The three-and-a-half-story mill operated from 1839-1917 under numerous owners including Jared Treman, a family member of Robert Treman, and Robert Halsey of the 1850 Cataract Hotel at Taughannock Falls.
In Conclusion
For more information about these state parks, click the New York State Park website here. You can take the full hikes, abbreviated hikes, or even drive up to many of these falls. This allows time to explore more of the Finger Lakes including the multitudes of wineries and nearby Watkins Glen.
Each of these state parks is different. However, if I could only hike one of these state parks, I would choose Buttermilk Falls, followed by Robert Treman.