I wanted to explore Emerald Lake, located in Yoho National Park. Just 25 miles from Lake Louise, Emerald Lake exudes a calmer, less touristy vibe than the more popular sites in Banff. Even better, we secured reservations at the historic Emerald Lake Lodge!

While most people have heard of Banff National Park, fewer are familiar with Yoho National Park, Canada’s second national park. Established in 1886 as St. Stephen Reserve, Yoho is part of the UNESCO Canadian Rocky Mountains World Heritage Site, along with Banff, Jasper, and Kootenay National Parks, as well as Mt. Robson, Mt. Assiniboine, and Hamber Provincial Parks.

Yoho’s largest lake is Emerald Lake at 225 acres, and the only one accessible by personal vehicle. Lake O’Hara is another popular lake, but it is only accessible by hiking 13 miles round trip or winning the random draw lottery on the Parks Canada shuttle (running only from mid-June to early October).

Emerald Lake Lodge

No cars, no television, no cell service … no problem! When staying at the lodge, guests park in a designated lot about 1 km from the property. A shuttle quickly came, taking us over the pedestrian/official shuttle bridge to the historic main building. Built in 1902, the main building now boasts a lobby, lounge, restaurant, and an upstairs game room with a pool table. All guest rooms, located in separate two-story buildings, surround the main lodge.

Since we arrived late after a full day in Banff and a brief stop at Lake Louise, we immediately went to bed. The lake and mountains greeted us when we stepped out onto the balcony the next morning. So did a light snowfall (in early June)!

The main lodge is the only place to access the internet, so we bundled up and walked there, passing the spa area with a hot tub, sauna, and workout room. We ordered coffee, tea, and light pastries from the Kicking Horse Lounge and found a cozy set of chairs overlooking the lake through the trees.

Pictures on the walls told us about the lodge’s history. The discovery of the lake goes to the Canadian Pacific Railway, which completed the nearby transcontinental railroad in 1885. To encourage tourism, the company built the 14-room lodge out of rough-hewn timber in 1902. In 1979, Canadian Rockies Mountain Resorts (CRMR) purchased the property, added the chalet-lodges, and made significant upgrades.

Emerald Lake Loop Trail

Setting out from the lodge, we decided to hike the 3.3-mile loop trail counterclockwise. A sign indicated that the western part of the trail was in poor condition, but we decided to go for it. The muddy path, filled with tree roots, remained mostly level and took us into a forested area. A few boardwalks, some still under construction, made the path a bit more manageable near the north side of the lake.

Soon, views of Emerald Lake appeared. The clouds gave the lake more of a milky, opaque aqua color. Looking eastward, President Range and Emerald Glacier stood before us.

Soon, we came to an alluvial fan area where the Emerald River meets the lake. We crossed a bridge and noticed the path, now gravel, became wider. We had been hiking for about an hour, but realized we were only a little over halfway along the loop.

We spotted more people on this part of the trail, and it was no wonder since there was more open shoreline. An avalanche slide trail appeared just below Emerald Peak, and we had to walk on the snow to continue to the other side. Rounding the bend, the boat dock appeared. Despite the cold, people eagerly rented canoes and ventured onto the lake.

Cabin on the Lake

Many people mistakenly think the cabin at the end of the pedestrian bridge is the Main Lodge. It is not. The two-story cabin is the Cilantro on the Lake restaurant, open seasonally.

By the time we finished the hike, we had built up a hearty appetite. The parking lot for day visitors had filled up, and more tourists milled about the grounds. After a short wait for a table, we sat down inside the restaurant, affectionately known as the “cabin by the lake.”

The floor-to-ceiling bay windows gave us a wonderful view of Emerald Lake. After a big meal (I couldn’t finish my pizza), we went back to our room and enjoyed a fire in the fireplace. Without internet, we read magazines and truly relaxed. That evening, we were still so full from lunch that we only shared a few appetizers at Kicking Horse Lounge.

Hamilton Falls Trail

The next morning, we asked about driving to Takakka Falls, one of Canada’s tallest falls, dropping over 1,200 feet. Unfortunately, Parks Canada hadn’t opened the road for the season yet. Instead, the front desk attendant suggested a short hike to Hamilton Falls.

The trail began at the day-use parking lot and climbed steadily. Fortunately, a hiker left a great walking stick next to a tree that I picked up. Because most of the snow from the previous day had melted, the hike felt easier than the level, lakeshore loop during the icy conditions. We continued on the trail, and soon, water cascaded over rocks and logs. We sat on the rocks and took it all in.

I walked a little bit further and realized there was more to see. After climbing over a few rocks, Hamilton Falls came into view. The falls are actually very narrow, coming out of a canyon. More adventurous hikers can continue on to Hamilton Lake. Instead, we turned around and went back to the lodge, taking the short path around Peaceful Pond.

In Conclusion

The term Yoho translates from the Cree language into “Awe.” Yoho National Park truly lives up to its name. While I wish we could have added another day to see more of the park, it was time to leave. That just means we need to make a return trip!

I’m almost afraid to tell the world about Emerald Lake at Yoho National Park, mainly because I don’t want tourists to overrun the area. We only scratched the surface of this fabulous park. If you are driving to Emerald Lake for the day, plan to arrive early in the morning as the parking lot fills up quickly.

You can find out about Emerald Lake Lodge from the website here. Additionally, check out Parks Canada Yoho National Park for trail information, road closures, and more. If you have time, visit some of Yoho’s other top destinations. These include Lake O’Hara, Takakkaw Falls, Wapta Falls, and Natural Bridge.